Exploring South Korea’s coffee addiction
Korea probably isn’t the first country which springs to mind when you think of coffee; perhaps more artisan cities such as Paris and Rome are more appropriate.
Coffee shops can be found all over South Korea. (Image courtesy of Nafinia Putra on Unsplash)
Recently, South Korea has been shaping up to be one of the biggest coffee consumers in the world, with an estimated 70,000 cafes occupying the country’s towns and cities.
These days, the coffee obsession in Korea is more evident than ever before. Actors are often seen with a takeout cup in K-dramas, and it’s hard to find a K-Pop idol livestream which doesn’t also feature the classic iced americano.
South Korea has developed their own franchise coffee brands including ‘A Twosome Place,’ ‘The Coffee Bean,’ and ‘Ediya Coffee’ in order to satisfy consumer demand. However, familiar western brands such as ‘Starbucks’ and ‘Blue Bottle Coffee,’ which launched in Korea in 2019, are also go-tos for consumers.
According to a report released by a prominent banking group in Korea, KB Financial Group, consumer spending on coffee is increasing every year. And despite the financial hardship brought to the Korean economy due to the pandemic these past three years, franchise and independent coffee shops seemed to have mostly survived the financial decline.
So where did this obsession with coffee come from? And, with Korea developing their own tastes for coffee, how can you make sure to appreciate the country’s coffee scene if you were to visit?
How did coffee first arrive in Korea?
It’s believed that King Gojong (1852-1919) was the first to have the opportunity to taste coffee when he fled to the Russian diplomatic ministry in 1896 in an attempt to avoid Japanese aggression. After his introduction to coffee, King Gojong developed a fondness for the beverage and had a special building created especially for drinking it, called Jeongwang-heon, situated in one of the palaces. This is regarded as Korea’s first cafe. However, only the King and his guest were permitted to drink there.
During this period, Korea had become known for its isolation from foreign countries; it limited trade and earned the title “The Hermit Kingdom” to describe the country’s unwillingness to engage in globalisation — hence coffee’s late introduction.
However, during the Japanese Occupation (1910-1945) and after, coffee began to be distributed on a broader scale. Then, coffee was an expensive drink and (perhaps due to its bitterness) Koreans would drink it similarly to hard liquor — in a small cup and downed in one shot.
Coffee in Korea was too expensive and bitter to drink in large cups at first, so was consumed similarly to alcohol. (Image courtesy of Crystal Huff on Unsplash)
In the 1920s, Korea’s first widespread cafes appeared, called ‘da-bangs,’ meaning ‘tea rooms’. Coffee became associated with westernisation and the effort towards modernisation, similarly to how, simultaneously, more and more Koreans opted to wear western suits instead of Korean traditional dress.
In the 1980s, coffee became a drink that was able to be enjoyed by people of all classes and backgrounds. ‘Da-bangs’ became a popular social spot, and the link between coffee and socialisation was strengthened during this time.
Presently, as the popularity of coffee is reaching its peak, Koreans are finding new ways to enjoy coffee with animal cafes and board game cafes appearing across the country. Animal cafes allow customers to enjoy the company of a wide range of animals such as meerkats, snakes, foxes, and cats, while they sip on their beverages. Similarly, board game cafes provide extra entertainment for customers, with a selection of board games available to play during your visit.
Where can you find the best coffee in Korea?
So, say you want to try this coffee culture for yourself — where should you go first? Well, depending on whether you want to travel in Seoul or outside of the city and to wider Korea, there are two areas which guarantee to provide you with a satisfactory coffee experience.
Yeonnam-dong in Hongdae, Seoul, is known for its so-called ‘matjib’s (맛집), a slang word referring to delicious restaurants. However, it’s also home to a wide array of independent cafes and coffee shops. This is the go-to place for ‘Instagrammable’ cafes and pretty but also delicious drinks. One cafe in particular, Greem Cafe, has been a popular destination for coffee lovers due to its 2D themed decoration.
그림카페 Greem Cafe in Hongdae, Seoul. (Image courtesy of Andrea De Santis on Unsplash)
But what if you want to get out of Seoul? Gangneung in Gangwon-do is located on the East coast, approximately an hour and a half train ride from Seoul. Gangneung offers cafes with a picturesque view of the sea, and (as well as tourists) native Koreans also travel to this area for weekend getaways and to visit popular cafe spots. Gangneung, as well as being known for its tofu-flavoured gelato, has a reputation for producing delicious coffee and therefore is a must-see destination if you want to travel to a new area of Korea.
Why has coffee become so popular in South Korea?
Korea has a seemingly complex connection to coffee, and one that can be understood more deeply in context to Korea’s era of modernisation. As previously mentioned, drinking coffee was, at first, a status symbol, only afforded to the elite and wealthiest of society. Drinking coffee demonstrated that you were embracing the modern world and that you were at the forefront of innovation.
These days, there’s a larger connection to be seen between coffee and the corporate work environment. Coffee is now used as an essential part of business networking, and, especially in Korea, buying your fellow employees (usually a senior in your company known as a ‘seonbae’) a takeout coffee during the work day is seen as part of business etiquette.
However, perhaps a more obvious answer to this question of popularity points towards the phenomenon we see in the West with coffee. Coffee is a social drink. Its ability to be enjoyed by anyone at any time of the day facilitates our social connections. Perhaps there is nothing more special to it than that.
The chance to socialise with others is arguably a big part of Korea’s growing love for coffee. (Image courtesy of Nathan Dumlao on Unsplash)
But social media has added a new layer to cafe culture in Korea specifically. In contrast to the West, finding and visiting themed cafes (such as the Greem Cafe), where you get more than just a cup of coffee but also a visual experience, has become important to consumers — sometimes this is more important than the actual quality of the coffee.
Korea’s themed cafes are certainly what makes the coffee culture in the country so unique, and there’s no shortage of places to grab a cup. If you’re willing to try a few places outside of the generic franchises, there’ll definitely be a cafe that will match your taste. The only area in which Korea seems to be lacking with coffee is that they are late to introduce dairy alternatives to their drinks. You’ll be able to find your oat or almond milk in a Starbucks, but independent cafes are choosing to stick to simple cow’s milk for now.
Nevertheless, coffee has been, and continues to be a huge part of modern Korean culture. And, despite the rising popularity of coffee rivals such as bubble tea franchise ‘Gong-Cha’, it seems that no other industry can match the loyalty of Korea’s coffee lovers.
Edited by Gabii Rayner.
