A foodie’s guide to Jeju island
Traveller and food reviewer Thuy explores the Korean islands Jeju and Udo, from the rich culture to seafood cuisines.
Images throughout: Thuy Bui for Cherry Chu Magazine.
Jeju-do jewels
Back in the New Year, I decided to go to Jeju Island (Jeju-do) to hike Seongsan Ilchulbong. Nicknamed the Sunrise Peak, this spot is a traditional must-see that many Koreans visit for the welcoming of the sunrise on New Year’s.
Situated on the far east of the island, this location is also where you will find the famous female Jeju divers, the Haenyeo (oftentimes nicknamed the ‘Mermaid’s of Jeju’ after the lengthy periods of time they spend diving for seaweed, shellfish, and other seafood).
The free-diving show, where the women collect local seafood, takes place at 1.30 pm and 3 pm, and allows visitors ‘to experience [the Haenyeo] job/culture as it is still happening today’.
Seafood dishes galore
I wasn’t in the area for too long, so I already had in mind what I wanted to eat – seafood, obviously. I headed to Galchiwang Seongsamjeom which offers two set menus to choose from (serving a minimum of 2 persons):
Steamed Hairtail Seafood Set (통갈치 해물찜대표) — Signature Menu
Price ranges from: 70,000—200,000 (dependant on the number of people served).
This includes: Jeju silver hairtail, Jeju stone octopus, abalone, horn sora, shellfish, and Jeju Badang.
Grilled Hairtail and Braised Hairtail Set (통갈치 구이 조림 세트대표)
Price ranges from: 65,000—160,000 (dependant on the number of people served).
This includes: 1 metre grilled whole hairtail, braised hairtail, sashimi, grilled abalone butter, grilled green sea bream and Grilled Mackerel.
Individual ordering is also available.
I decided to go for the Signature Menu:
I would really recommend ordering a set menu so you get a selection of everything on offer, and I know I will certainly be coming back to this place again to try the other set. The waiting staff cook the seafood for you, and also serve it directly to your plate. My waiter even presented my food on the shells in a heart form!
Location: 갈치왕 성산점제주
서귀포시 성산읍 성산중앙로37번길 9 1층 갈치왕 성산점
Galchiwang Seongsamjeom
Seongsanjungang-ro 37beon-gil, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do 63643
So, that’s cooked seafood, but what about fresh seafood?
Bide your time for Jeju specialities
This restaurant, translated as Onpyung Sea Bowl, is a bit out of the way, with nothing much around it, but trust me, this is where you’ll find the locals queuing up. I waited over an hour during dinner time, in the freezing cold island weather at the time, so be prepared to be fairly patient.
The freshest seafood will be on offer and is caught daily by a Haenyeo. You may see her if you go to eat during lunchtime hours, and you’ll also be able to catch a lovely seaside view.
When you pop your name down on the waiting list, you are also told to write down your order in advance (this may differ depending on how busy the restaurant is). Since it was cold and raining during the time I went, what better than to do as Koreans do with the combination of makgeolli and Korean pancake! Peanut makgeolli to be specific and seafood pancake, because, hey, we’re in Jeju after all, and both are specialities.
But the real prize we came for was this fresh seafood set for only 87,000 won.
The ‘Assorted Seafood Sashimi Set and Seafood Ramen’ was accompanied by assorted side dishes known as banchan — unlimited, of course.
Location: 온평바다한그릇제주
서귀포시 성산읍 환해장성로 467
Eonpyeongbadahangeurot467
Hwanhaejangseong-ro, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si, Jeju-do 63633
Special spots
As this was a winter break, I didn’t visit the beach. But the best one in my opinion to visit is Aewol Gwakji Gwamul Beach (애월 곽지과물해변).
The end is home to a bakery that I visited twice during my visit in summer; this place is big and spacious and also has a souvenir shop, the majority of which is orange themed to represent the famous Jeju-grown oranges. Make sure to try the Hallabong Orange Bread if you pop in!
Location: 애월빵공장제주도제주시
애월읍 금성5길 42-15 63034
Aewol Bakery
42-15, Geumseong 5-gil, Aewol-eup, Jeju-si, Jeju-do
Just a tip — this beach is quite a long stretch, so if you want to avoid the majority of tourists, I recommend walking towards the left side. If you’re looking for a good sunset spot, then I recommend the Team Blow café with its huge windows and beautiful views, it makes for a great relaxing point.
Location: 팀블로우제주
제주시 애월읍 애월로 19-5 1층
Team Blow
2474-3 Aewol-ri, Aewol-eup, Jeju-si, Jeju-do
If you have more time to explore Jeju Island, I also recommend visiting the ARTE Museum (and tea experience). The museum is part of a global franchise, dedicated to ‘reinterpreting various elements and spaces in nature as immersive media art’.
The original space is in Jeju, and definitely worth a visit during its 10 am - 8 pm opening hours, 7 days a week!
Location: 아르떼뮤지엄 제주
제주특별자치도 제주시 애월읍 어림비로 478
ARTE Museum
478, Eorimbi-ro, Aewol-eup, Jeju-si, Jeju-do 63038
Uncovering Udo
On the day of my flight back to Seoul, I decided to do a quick ferry ride over to Udo Island. My colleagues had recommended trying peanut ice cream, and — having a sweet tooth — I just had to go! The ferry from Jeju to Udo runs from 7 am on the hour, depending on weather conditions.
As this was a quick, spontaneous trip, I decided to get the hop-on-off bus ticket for convenience when I arrived. Some people also hire buggies to drive around the island, which offers a fun alternative. The island is small, so it’s travelable and doable in a day.
For a bite to eat, I headed to Salle Udo Café, where I ordered a delicious Jeju carrot cake accompanied by a Udo Soboro Peanut Latte (hot) and Udo Peanut Einspanner. And not forgetting the famous peanut ice cream!
Location: 카페살레제주 제주시
우도면 우도해안길 816 1,2층
Salle Udo Café
816, Udohaean-gil, Udo-myeon, Jeju-si, Jeju-do 63365
And that’s a whistle-stop tour of Jeju and Udo! Which one of the places mentioned catches your eye? Or are there any other great spots you would recommend to travellers? Let us know in the comments below.
Edited by Gabii Rayner.